The Proposal

On January 2, 2012 I met Kristal Sawatzke. She had wet hair, was wearing sweatpants, and waiting for McDonalds delivery. It was love at first sight. At the time, we were part of a short term study abroad program, but most of you know that part of the story. We hit it off over those two weeks (though our only “real conversation” happened on a 45 minute flight from Dubai to Doha) and on January 15, 2012 we said goodbye on a Dhow cruise. I told Kristal “my one regret from this trip was not spending more one on one time with you”. We promised to keep in touch and would see each other at a conference that March.

That conference never happened, as I tore my Achilles, and Kristal moved away. Away to New Zealand that is. I went to Doha and now there were 9,000 miles between us. We kept in touch, glorified pen pals really, until June 7, 2013 when I paid her a visit. We called it the “8 day first date” and it couldn’t have gone any better. When we said goodbye this time on June 14, 2013 we decided to date long distance and do anything to make it work. We did this for over a year and it had its highs and lows. Long distance is a challenge, but on August 29, 2014 it ended when Kristal arrived in Doha.

 Fast forward to this past weekend, January 17 of 2015. It was your average Saturday, nothing special at all. I had to work in the morning, Kristal had a softball game that afternoon. When I finished work I got a call from Kristal that her softball game had been canceled so we could hang out. We decided to take a walk along the Corniche (downtown waterfront in Doha), which is a perfect 5k. We walked from the start to the end, had a picnic, watched the sun set, and Kristal almost broke my camera dropping it onto the pavement- oops. As the skyline began to light up, we made our way back another 5k. Along the waterfront there are Dhow boats covered in lights to take people out for views of the skyline. I tell her we should take one out for some views, and after she protests for a bit (Skype dates, work in the morning, etc.), we get on. Just the two of us. As we cruise across the Doha skyline Kristal is snapping away with the camera. I come over to her and ask if she remembers what I had told her three years earlier. She repeats the quote to me about regrets and I tell her, “Since then I have had no regrets being with you.” I go into a string of compliments and telling her how happy I am that she is finally in Doha. Kristal begins to sense something is up and gets nervous. She focuses on the photos, and can hardly look in my direction. I tell her that she is the one, my A1 that I want to spend the rest of my life with (inside joke but it meant it was the real deal), and I ask her to marry me. I am down on one knee as she turns to me and no tears, no screams, just a simple photo. Click. She puts down the camera and reaches for the ring. I tell her she hasn’t said ANYTHING yet, and she finally says the word, “yes.” Insert enthusiasm and shock here!!!!!!

 It was nearly 3 years to the day from the first time we said goodbye. Her softball game wasn’t canceled but I had Kevin (same conspirator from the Valentine’s Day surprise) call her to say it was canceled and then he came over and set up flowers and champagne while we were out. After she said yes we walked the 4k back to the car before coming home to start skyping with friends and family. We spent about 4 hours catching up with people, hardly making a dent in who we wanted to share the news with. 

The whole experience has been surreal and we can’t begin to tell you how much we have appreciated all the messages, excitement, and support. Being away from family and friends at times like this is difficult but we are thankful to be coming to the US many times this year! As of now we are looking at a summer wedding in 2016 in the great state of Minnesota. We are so thankful to all of those who have been with us along the way. So here’s to one hell of a story and an even better future!

Qatar in the News!

A lot has been happening here in Qatar the last few weeks! The World Innovation Summit for Education (http://www.wise-qatar.org/) just took place and continues to serve as a great mid-semester motivator for me. Qatar finally got some positive press about the great work being done in the field of education, specifically Her Highness Sheikha Moza:
http://www.bbc.com/news/business-29997174

And the corruption allegations against Qatar for the 2022 World Cup have been found inconclusive and it appears Qatar will be keeping its bid:
http://www.abc.net.au/news/2014-11-13/qatar-to-keep-2022-fifa-world-cup-after-investigation/5889924

I spent last weekend in the desert hosting a group of students for an outdoor leadership program and this past weekend I found myself back at the camel race track for the start of the racing season!!! Lots of exciting things on the horizon with Movember celebrations, Thanksgiving, basketball playoffs, and looking forward to getting home in just a few weeks. Here's just a few recent photos of what has been happening!

 

 

Why do you travel?

How many countries have you been to? What’s your favorite place you have visited? When is your next trip? As a traveler these questions come up often. Living in Doha, these come up almost daily. Recently I have been really struggling with the idea of global travel. Mostly I have been hung up on the following questions:

• Why do people travel?
•  How do you get an authentic experience while traveling?

A recent article I read prompted this post. It was titled “When Tourism Turns into Narcissism”. You can find it here:

http://www.vice.com/read/henry-wismayer-boring-travellers-015

I have met a lot of the “characters” described in the article. There’s the backpacker who spends 3 months in a country staying in their hostel all day to save money but is out every night partying to “experience the culture”. Or there are the individuals whose world travels take them from one five star resort to the next, rarely leaving the grounds.

This leads into the question of “Why do people travel?”. This is likely different for each person. I like to think people travel to expand their global understanding. To help them relate to people that are different than them. To experience a culture different than their own. But I feel it is becoming more common that travel has become fashionable. That people are using travel as a way to prove that they are cultured and globally aware by virtue of how many countries they have been to. People start to look for quantity of experiences over quality. We all have done it. Take out the passport, flip through the stamps, and admire the great work you have done getting around the globe. I am not saying this is wrong, but is there something more?

The challenge is, how do you get an authentic experience while traveling? While many of us would love to visit a country for 6 months, do a homestay, learn the local language, and live an entirely new life, we don’t often get that opportunity. I once had this conversation with a friend trying to figure out the best way to travel and he responded with, “it depends how you want to see the world.” If you want to do a partying tour through Europe to experience the diversity of nightlife, great! If you are a foodie and want to eat your way through South East Asia, fantastic. If you are a football fan and want to visit stadiums in each country you visit, go for it. You need to pick the lens from which you view the world. Getting that authentic experience is a challenge. The best way I have found is to connect with someone who lives in the country. A friend of a friend, a couch surfer, a trusted tour guide, etc. Don’t rely on the mainstream travel books, although they can be a good start.

I often reflect on my own reasons for traveling and if I am making the most of these incredible opportunities. Being the “fit in as much as you can” traveler that I am, I often don’t do cities/countries justice when I visit (read the last post about Munich/Salzburg as an example). But I do like to think that while I am there I am seeking ways to avoid only mainstream sights and find the heart of the place I am visiting. Would love to hear people’s thoughts on this and how they frame it for themselves. Lots of questions, no easy answers. But keep exploring and always push to make the most of each experience. 

Travel Tips: Munich and Salzburg

Munich
Where to stay: Close to Marienplatz

When to go: Oktoberfest is mid Sept-early Oct

What to see: Chinese Garden, Marienplatz Square, Hofbrahaus, English Gardens

How to get there: From the airport take the S8 train into the city center

Salzburg
How to get there: Take the train from Munich

Where to stay: Bloberger Hof Hotel (great price)

Where to eat: St. Peter's (est. 803)

What to do: Dinner and concert at the Fortress, Sound of Music Tours, explore the lakes and mountains district, Mirabell gardens, Mozart's birthplace, Salzburg Cathedral

Welcome to Oktoberfest! (and Salzburg...)

We tried. We tried REALLYYY hard to stay in Doha for Eid, save some money, and relax as Kristal adjusts to her new life in Doha. We failed. And when I say failed, what I mean is that we nailed it and got to take another once in a lifetime trip to Munich's Oktoberfest!!! We were debating whether to stay in Doha and decided it was worth a look to see if the Oktoberfest dates lined up. Sure enough the last weekend of Oktoberfest and first weekend of Eid lined right up. So at 4am on Friday morning we were off to Munich, the land of sausages, pretzels, and beers.

 

We arrived Friday afternoon in Munich after a Pegasus flight that received a round of applause when its wheels finally touched down. Once in the airport we wanted to get in the city as fast as we could, but not before a meal of white sausage, mustard, pretzels, and beer (we would have this for every meal for the next two days). We took the train into the downtown and walked over to get the keys for our Air BnB. Hotel prices for Oktoberfest were insane so we lucked out in getting our own one bedroom flat walking distance from Marienplatz (a main train station). The rest of the afternoon we spent sightseeing, taking pictures, and getting a feel for the city. The next day we knew we would be committed to Oktoberfest so we had to get our tourism all out of the way!

Kristal and I didn't know what to expect from Oktoberfest, all we know is our expectations were blown away. Let me paint a picture for you. Imagine walking through a major city, reaching the outskirts of it, and from the end of the street you begin to see a fair ground emerge. It reminds you of the state fair that you have been to but this is so much more. Oktoberfest has approximately 12 "tents" (which were really standing buildings) representing the biggest breweries in Germany. The tents go around the edge of the fairground with carnival games and rides filling the middle. There are tens of thousands of people there each day and tents can hold up to 7,000 people in each one! In a perfect world we would have had a reservation for one of these tents but evidently they are as hard to come by as NFL season tickets. Luckily we were visiting Kristal's friend Rebecca, who had grown up in Munich, and she was able to help sneak us in. The tent was just as your would image. Long banquet tables, beers cheersing, band blaring, chanting, and standing on chairs. We spent the next several hours singing along (I learned the songs from Oktoberfest bands in Doha believe it or not), drinking Spatens, and trying to take in all the chaos. It absolutely lived up to the hype and I encourage you to get there at least once if you get the chance!

The next morning we were off to Salzburg, Austria (home of the Sound of Music!) for a short visit in the Austrian mountains. Salzburg had been a recommendation from Rebecca and we are so glad we went. The city had incredible history, colorful buildings, classical music, and more Sound of Music tours than you can imagine. While in Salzburg we ate dinner at a restaurant that opened in 803 (thanks Rachel and Tristan!), we took a ride out to the lake and mountain district, we saw a classical music concert in a 900 year old fortress, and did our first do it yourself walking tour! At the minimum just being able to experience Fall weather was refreshing and Austria gave us an incredible backdrop for it. Although our time was short there, as it always seems to be, we had an amazing experience and it is a must-see if you are in Munich!

As a new part to the blog I am going to add a travel tips post after each trip so if people want advice on cities they can reference this (inspired by you Gina).

For now we are back on the ground in Doha although we just booked flights home for Christmas!!! It will be my first time back for Christmas in over 2 years. We will be in the states from Dec 16-30 and hoping to see as many people as we can while we are there!  

Expats Have a Hard Time Adjusting to Life in Qatar

The words in the title are not mine, but that of a headline on a local Doha news outlet. A recent survey about the quality of life of ex-pats across the world has ranked Qatar 58 out of 61 countries.

The full article can be found here:

http://dohanews.co/survey-finds-expats-hard-time-adjusting-life-qatar/#

As an advocate for life here in Doha I was quite surprised to see this ranking but as I read the article and looked at the results it was hard to argue. It is true that cost of living is quite high, and that some people don't enjoy the desert climate. It is also true that school enrollments are competitive, and it can be a difficult cultural adjustment. But the measure that was most interesting to me was that expats have mostly expat friends. My first thought was...well DUH! Don't all expats have mostly expat friends (clearly this is my first time living abroad). Then it dawned on me just how separated the Qatar society is for expats and nationals. I have the privilege of being good friends with many nationals who I have met through work, but many of my other expat colleagues have had limited interactions with nationals let alone friendships. Having lived in Doha as my first expat experience I think I have had a skewed perception of what life abroad is, but I don't think Doha should have ranked so low.

While Doha has its problems, like anywhere else, I think the benefits of living hear greatly outweigh the challenges. The article mentions medical care, personal safety, political stability, and a strong economy as some of the benefits. I would go on to mention family benefits, tax free income, increased holiday leave, amazing weather 6-8 months out of the year, an incredible diversity of people, and a globally central location to travel from! It is easy to sit back to comment on all the places for Qatar to improve, it is a relatively new country after all, but the benefits can't be ignored.

Either way it was an interesting read and gives another snapshot of expat life. Give me a shout if you get to read it!

Coping with Loss and Family Life Abroad

In a lot of ways this is probably something I should have written about when the Witt family came out to Doha last January for a visit. There have been a lot of highs and lows from moving abroad as it relates to my family. This week the last of my living grandparents passed away and have been forced to go through the grieving process 9,000 miles away from family. While this has been difficult it has also made me reflect on how lucky I am to have the support of my family.

When I first decided that I would move to Doha it was a shock for my parents. Even though we had been talking about it for quite some time, when I made the decision it was not easy for them. In particular my mom struggled a lot with me living so far away. Is it safe? How can we communicate? Will you ever come home? Will you go off and get married there never to return?! We spent weeks and weeks in constant conversation (and sometimes battles) about me moving to Doha. Even after the move took place when I returned home there was hostility about me leaving the family. It made the move stressful and although the concerns were coming from a place or care, it made me feel a lack of support.

I say all of this to lay the context for the reality. The reality is in many ways my time abroad has brought me and my family closer together. We Skype every Sunday to catch up about what happened that week, something we didn’t do when I was living in DC. I have cherished the times I have gone home and because our time is short we make the most of it. We have shared experiences, like their visit in January for us to experience a new culture together. And as a whole I feel like we have a closer understanding and appreciation of each other than ever before.

And this brings us to the loss of my grandmother, Dorothy Witt. At 92 years old it is easy to say that she lived a full life. And her passing was not a surprise for the family as her health has deteriorated considerably over the last few years. But one of my most difficult moments of living abroad has been this, and not being able to be there with my family. Although life abroad may seem like it is one big adventure and endless opportunity, there are plenty of moments where you stop and think…is this selfish? Am I doing the right thing? What are my priorities? What should they be?

This week has been a big reality to check to make sure you spend more time with the ones you love. And to not take that time for granted (I know this is cliché). The reality is while I have been abroad I have choices. Do I go home for holidays? Or travel? Do I Skype with Mom and Dad on Sunday or go out with friends? Do I keep in touch with those back home? Or make excuses for being “too busy”? A commitment I have made for this year is to get home more often, spend more time with family, and re-connect with those I may have lost touch with. While my grandmother’s passing has been humbling I also want to be able to celebrate her for the great life she led. I wrote a short note to her that will be read at her wake in my absence that I will include here. Living abroad is full of difficult decisions and I can only hope to make the right ones in the future.

Grandma-

I have been incredibly blessed to have you as part of my life for these 26 years. You have inspired me in my ways. You have taught me about the importance of family, about the importance of love, and how to live life to its fullest. That is something I will always remember about you and Pa. You found the joy in each day, and never let anything keep you down. Even as you got older you had a spirit that could not be broken. Your quick "witt" (get it?) and sassy comments always brought a smile to our family. Your body may have been weak but your mind was always sharp. 

You approached life with a sense of humor and a sense of wonder. I will always remember the amazing support that you and Pa were for the family as we grew up. And as you grew old I will always cherish our conversations about your childhood, raising your three crazy boys, but most importantly of the adventures you and Pa shared. I am so thankful for the time we spent together and wish that I could be there today. Even though I am 9,000 miles away I am thinking about you and know you are even closer to me now. Although this is a sad time, we take comfort in you being in a better place. So let's celebrate the incredible woman that was Dorothy Witt. And do us all a favor...say hi to Pa for us. We miss him too!

With Love,

Evan